Where to Stay
The 1910 Hermitage Hotel is an exquisite example of beaux-arts architecture. It had a $17-million renovation in 2003.
231 6th Ave. N., Nashville, 1-888-888-9414, www.thehermitagehotel.com
Blackberry Farm is a Knoxville hide away that has deservedly made it onto many top culinary and hotel lists. Activities include fly fishing and horseback riding. Ask the stable manager about his elephant-training days.
1471 W. Millers Cove Rd., Walland, Tennessee, 865-380-2260, www.blackberryfarm.com
Between its 19th-century-style decor and location in the historic part of downtown Lexington, the Gratz Park Inn has the feel of an old southern estate – with modern luxuries like Wi-Fi and Swedish mattresses.
120 W. 2nd St., Lexington, Kentucky,
1-800-752-4166, www.gratzparkinn.com
Where to Eat
Margot Café & Bar is Nashville’s hottest restaurant, in an old service station in the east end. The southern-inspired menu changes daily.
1017 Woodland St., Nashville, 615-227-4668, www.margotcafe.com
The legendary Arnold’s Country Kitchen is the best place to enjoy the local meat-plus-three tradition: Choose one type of meat and three types of veggies.
605 8th Ave. S., Nashville, 615-256-4455
Knoxville, like Nashville, has surprisingly good seafood. Nama Sushi Bar delivers innovative variations on traditional sushi, like substituting Korean sriracha hot sauce for wasabi.
135 S. Gay St., Knoxville, Tennessee,
865-633-8539, www.namasushibar.com
In a conservative city like Lexington, Metropol serves up continental classics in an intimate downtown setting.
307 W. Short St., Lexington, Kentucky, 859-381-9493
What to Do
The archive collection at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is packed with documents, artifacts and recordings, and it’s open to anyone by appointment.
222 5th Ave. S., Nashville, 615-416-2001, www.countrymusichalloffame.com
Hatch Show Print helped define the Nashville esthetic – and it still uses a traditional woodblock letterpress to make its distinctive prints.
316 Broadway, Nashville, 615-256-2805, www.hatchshowprint.com
Normally located near the airport, The Grand Ole Opry returns to its roots at the downtown Ryman Auditorium during November and December. If you happen to be in New York on November 14, catch a special 80th-anniversary performance at Carnegie Hall.
2802 Opryland Dr., Nashville, 615-871-OPRY, www.opry.com
The Station Inn books top bluegrass acts on weeknights and Saturdays. But be sure to call ahead: It regularly sells out.
402 12th Ave. S., Nashville, 615-255-3307, www.stationinn.com
East Tennessee State University has the world’s only degree program in bluegrass music and puts on regular performances. Although it’s a bit of a drive from Knoxville, it’s worth the trip for dedicated fans.
Johnson City, Tennessee, 423-439-5348, cass.etsu.edu/bluegrass
Scott Goodlett, who owns Tours of Tradition, also scouts film locations for Hollywood and brokers breeding arrangements between horse owners. He’ll happily explain the horse business.
400 Heddington Court, Versailles, Kentucky, 859-879-0319, www.toursoftradition.com
Check out The Woodford Reserve Distillery’s stunning copper pot stills – the kind used in Scotch and Irish whiskey – and stop by from April to October for its gourmet Picnic on the Porch, served from Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to
2 p.m.
7855 McCracken Pike, Versailles, Kentucky, 859-879-1812, www.woodfordreserve.com
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www.bmwdrivertraining.ca
Thanks to BMW Canada and BMW North America.
What to Listen to
Lonely Runs Both Ways – Alison Krauss and Union Station
With legendary players like dobro king Jerry Douglas and Krauss’ own band of virtuosos, this is the closest bluegrass gets to a supergroup.
Movin’ On – The Greencards
And now for something completely different: bluegrass played by two Aussies and a Brit. Purists scoff at the electric bass but are otherwise impressed.
O Sister 2: A Women’s Bluegrass Collection – Various Artists
This sequel is better than the first one. It’s mostly contemporary tunes, with a few classics thrown in for good measure.
Getting There
Air Canada offers the only daily non-stop service between Toronto and Nashville.