PATAGONIA
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Where to Stay
Nestled deep in Torres del Paine National Park, Explora’s Hotel Salto Chico has, thankfully, no televisions in its rooms (there’s one in the library) but all the food, wine and spa amenities you’ll want.
56-2-206-6060, explora.com
Architectural enlightenment is found at Remota, a modern take on vernacular hacienda design with floor-to-ceiling glass. The huge open firepits beside the resto-lounge are ideal for shaking off a Patagonian chill.
Ruta 9 Norte, k.m. 1.5, Huerto 279, Puerto Natales, 56-2-387-1500, remota.cl
Indigo Hotel & Spa’swaterfront perch lets you watch the local fishing fleet. It’s a member of Rusticae, the global network of Spanish pequeños hoteles con carácter.
Ladrilleros 105, Puerto Natales, 56-61-413-609, indigopatagonia.com
An iron-and-glass bridge connects Hotel Fundador’s two buildings, which straddle a street on the edge of Santiago’s historic Paris-London barrio.
Paseo Serrano 34, 56-2-387-120, fundador.cl
Where to Eat
At Asador Patagónico, it’s all about the meat. They make their lamb gaucho-style, spiced only with salt and cooked on wood harvested from fallen trees. Vegetarians will like the bistro El Living, owned by Brit-born Jeremy Salter, a former Explora tour guide, and his wife, Anne Patterson. The kitchen runs on North American hours, with no siesta: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Asador Patagónico Arturo Prat 158, Puerto Natales, 56-61-413-553
El Living Arturo Prat 156, Puerto Natales, el-living.com
What to Do
Remota and Explora offer guided outdoor activities, such as full-day hiking, boating and horseback riding excursions. Bring good footwear and a sense of adventure; Patagonia is not for the weak of heart or short of breath.
Explora 56-2-206-6060, explora.com
Remota Puerto Natales, 56-2-387-1500, remota.cl
Susanne Steiger, the designer behind Patagonia’s answer to Lululemon, offers private open-air yoga in Puerto Natales. Respirez?! Susanne Steiger, la conceptrice qui se cache derrière l’équivalent patagonien de Lululemon, offre des cours particuliers de yoga en plein air à Puerto Natales.
56-61-413-829, susalatino.com
Travel Planner
What to Pack in October
Hiking boots and thermal clothes.
Good to Know
Bring cash; in the outback, bank machines are few and far between.
The Expert
Chilean Tourism Promotion Corporation visit-chile.org
Getting There
Air Canada offers five weekly non-stop flights to Santiago from Toronto (until November 30). Daily service is offered from December to April 4, 2008.
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