THE NEXT 20
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THE WHALESBONE OYSTER HOUSE
430 Bank St., Ottawa, 613-231-8569, thewhalesbone.com
If you crossed a Moe’s Tavern with an American Apparel ad, the result would be this fun, intentionally kitschy pub. There’s the requisite gold bust of Elvis, something that sounds like a Burt Bacharach-meets-Big Bird duet on the turntable and a tattoo parlour across the street. The confident kitchen has a bold touch with cod cheeks and a way with steaks that seems to elude many restaurants. The lemon pot de crème pudding breathes new life into an old standard.
Dish
We give it points for redefining surf and turf as bivalve and organ with the surprisingly tasty combination of pickled clam and foie gras.
LES TROIS PETITS BOUCHONS
4669, rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, 514-285-4444, troispetitsbouchons.com
The kitchen in this cool, subterranean space bases its cooking around market-fresh ingredients, so the menu changes frequently – hence the blackboard. (Don’t worry; you only have to read off six appetizers, six mains, some cheese and three desserts.) You might find foie gras mousse with a brûlée top, super-tender grilled veal, duck confit and a phenomenal pissaladière. Earl Grey crème brûlée is one of the rare twists on this popular dessert that actually works.
Drink
The restaurant’s eco-conscious side shows not only in ingredients that support local organic farmers but also in a wine list that features organic and biodynamic wines.
VELLA
5282, boul. Saint-Laurent, Montréal, 514-274-8447
Continuing one of this year’s most welcome trends toward beautifully prepared homestyle food, chef and owner Giovanni Vella claims he was inspired by his mother’s cooking. The Portuguese-cum-Italian menu includes an entire section dedicated to salt cod. But regulars know that the smart thing to do is let the kitchen staff decide what you want to eat. They might usher in mushrooms with buffalo mozzarella or an octopus with lentil salad. Salt cod fritters will probably make an appearance and, if you’re still up for it, there’s a boozy tiramisu.
Music
Funk and R&B from James Brown to Prince keep the pinky-ring crowd tapping their pedicured toes.
GIO
1725 Market St., Halifax, 902-425-1987, giohalifax.com
To our knowledge, this is the only restaurant in the world where the waiter (sporting a single glove, Michael Jackson-style) offers fresh shavings from a block of Himalayan salt. Chef Ray Bear is working hard to bring postmodern food to the people of Halifax. Chicken lollipops arrive on tall skewers with a passion fruit mostarda (this year’s It condiment). A double shot of boar features the loin wrapped in boar bacon with a cornbread crouton. The apple stack triggers fond memories of instant porridge.
Dish
The weirdest dish we ate? Tuna fries: batons of tuna wrapped in nori and panko, and served with a Day-Glo green lime mayo, with all the appeal of a used Band-Aid.
MOSAIC SOCIAL DINING LOUNGE
1584 Argyle St., Halifax, 902-405-4700, mosaicsocialdining.com
Think international tapas in a cool, loungey setting overlooking bustling Argyle Street. The nomadic menu ranges from Irish (Dubliner cheddar and charred tomato pie) to Mongolian (lamb with bacon and cabbage) to local (PEI beef tenderloin with mashed potatoes). Plenty of wines are served by the glass, making pairings a snap. The laid-back, sexy vibe encourages guests to linger after dinner as the lounge gets more boisterous. Dans ce bar-salon surplombant Argyle Street, les tapas sont à l’honneur, inspirées de diverses cultures.
Decor
There is, of course, plenty of tile work, as the name implies, but we’ve never seen a wider array of seating – from tall stools and ottomans to sectional sofas and loveseats.
Dining Trends
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