Where to Eat Next
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BISTRO 7 1/4
725 Osborne St., Winnipeg, 204-777-2525, alexanderskitchen.com
The open kitchen surrounded by bar stools is a fun theatrical design element that we want to see more of – hey, it keeps the kitchen on its toes. A solid menu based on Italian and French traditions informs the bistro-style menu, from rabbit ragout with papardelle to salade niçoise.
Never too full for dessert
Carrot cake with cream cheese frosting and brown butter cheesecake with fig and raspberry sauce can be ordered as whole or half portions.
ZEST
2903 Powerhouse Dr., Regina , 306-522-5250, zestrestaurant.ca
The Saskatchewan Science Centre could be the location for the ultimate molecular gastronomy experiment, but Regina isn’t quite ready for that. Yet locals are responding enthusiastically to the relatively daring menu from chef Rob Fuller at the centre’s new restaurant. His terrine of bison and elk is served with local Saskatoon berry chutney, and his apricot-and-chili-braised lamb comes with mashed chickpeas (also a significant local crop – who knew?).
Civic duty
Cooking classes and courses on food and wine pairing are offered regularly.
 Photo by John Gaucher
ALEXIS
4824 16th St. S.W., Calgary, 403-214-3616
The busted crockery light fixture in this Altadore strip-mall restaurant is a symbol for breaking down and reinterpreting French bistro favourites. Though the original talent behind the stoves, James “Seamus” Havlin (who cooked like an angel), has departed for Vancouver, his legacy of choosing the finest available ingredients is respected.
Best wine deal in Canada
The wine list is brief, imaginative and not inexpensive, but there’s a mere $20 corkage fee for bringing your own bottle.
MERCATO
2224 4th St. S.W., Calgary, 403-263-5535
Father-and-son teams are the formula for success this year (just ask the Treadwells, see number eight). Victor Caracciolo and his son Dominic (of Bridgeland Italian Market) have created a hybrid Italian café/gourmet market/cooking school that we’d love to see propagate. Sit at the bar surrounding a large open kitchen preparing Italian comfort: insalata Caprese, tagliatelle with pomodoro sauce and Mama Cathy’s meatballs.
Soup of the year
Zuppa di Pesce, a thick, rich tomato and white wine broth laden with fresh clams, prawns and cod.
THE TRIBUNE
118 8th Ave. S.W., Calgary, 403-269-3160
We love the intimate dining room in a vintage Stephen Avenue space, with its cozy leather banquettes, chic table settings and vast wine list. But we adore the House Roasts, like a whole leg of lamb
or a massive one-kilogram porterhouse. The revitalization of these old-fashioned sharing dishes is a movement for which we heartily thank owner Ron Salverda and chef Andrew Keen.
Best wine pairing
Lac Brome duck à la presse for two with a 2002 Schug Pinot Noir.
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