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Where to Eat Next1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | CBNR Mission Statement & Index | Home  JAMIE KENNEDY GARDINER 111 Queen’s Park, Toronto, 416-362-1957, jkkitchens.com Museums are the new hotels where restaurants are concerned. This modern, minimalist exhibition of grey slate and blond wood is populated with well-heeled ladies and ceramics enthusiasts appreciating its ever-changing menu. One item sure to stay is the Sri Lankan Hopper: a fermented coconut milk and rice flour pancake filled with curried fish or lamb, cooked at its own little dining room station. Dessert of the year Retro strawberry shortcake with plump, ripe berries and lightly caramelized cake.  KI 181 Bay St., Toronto, 416-308-5888, kijapanese.com Suits of all description (black, blue and grey) are drawn by upscale Asian cuisine (unctuous baby back ribs braised in maple syrup, apple and miso) and a prime financial district location – evidence of the return of power restaurants, combining serious business and culinary pleasure. We toast the wine list’s fine selection of sake, wines by the glass, half bottles and foolproof tasting notes (“refreshing and light,” “robust and spicy”). That’s a mouthful The leaf that wraps the bamboo makimono must not be eaten. Trust us.  LAI TOH HEEN 692 Mount Pleasant Rd., Toronto, 416-489-8922, laitohheen.com We welcome another authentic, modern Cantonese restaurant that, like its downtown counterpart Lai Wah Heen (also owned by Metropolitan hotelier Henry Wu), serves exquisite dim sum creations at both lunch and dinner. Chefs Ken Tam and Terence Chan create morsels such as deep-fried tofu purse with shredded duck and vegetables that are good enough to eat twice a day. Most challenging cocktail Mou Tini: Moutai (powerful liquor distilled from fermented sorghum) and vodka garnished with a dried plum dusted with saccharin.  TORITO 276 Augusta Ave., Toronto, 647-436-5874 Toronto ’s Kensington Market is outgrowing boho and establishing itself as a serious food destination. Diners eye the olive oil and piquillo peppers on display and line up for a picnic table seat amid brick walls sporting bullfighting paraphernalia. Chef Carlos Hernandez’s menu is reliable but encourages experimentation. Start with ceviche or chestnut and chorizo soup; then take the bull by the horns with au courant braised beef cheek, tongue or Chilean tripe stew. Best garnish Corn nuts with the seafood ceviche.  VERTICAL 100 King St. W., Toronto, 416-214-2252, verticalrestaurant.ca Another financial district power player, this time with an idiosyncratic Mediterranean bent. Chef Tawfik Shehata formerly manned the stoves at Toronto’s Eau (number seven in our 2003 survey); his distinct style is revealed in dishes like saffron mackerel escabeche, lamb rack with almond tahini dressing and an exemplary pannacotta. Better than the gipsy kings Jamie Cullum’s crooning cover of The Neptunes’ hit “Frontin’” and John Holt’s reggae version of “Mr. Bojangles” as your dining soundtrack. |
