Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2006

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Photos by John Gaucher

02.CAPO

1420 9th Ave. S.E., Calgary, 403-264-2276, caporestaurant.ca

Chef Giuseppe Di Gennaro (formerly of Calgary favourite Il Sogno) is the undisputed capo of this haute Italian res­taurant, producing food with powerful flavours and luxurious textures.

Everything from the Fortessa bone china and Schott Zwiesel stemware to the Frette napkins suggests sophistication. Seated on a cream banquette, with attentive staff crumbing the tablecloth and blanketing the slightest drip with a fresh linen napkin, you could not feel more indulged.

The lid of a brass casserole releases the intoxicating steam of prawns, clams and tender cannellini beans in a tomato coulis so sweet and sharp, other tables stop mid-conversation to stare. Ethereal house-made ricotta dumplings are cradled in a rich lobster sauce américaine, white truffle oil and onion sprouts. Roasted pheasant breast is moist, crisp and deliciously gamy.

The sumptuous finale is a warm dark chocolate cake with banana caramel ice cream and gianduja mousse. Elegant, luxurious and sophisticated, this capo rules with a velvet glove.

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