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Canada’s Best New Restaurants 20061 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | CBNR Mission Statement & Index | Home
Photos by Martin Tessler 01. NU 1661 Granville St., Vancouver , 604-646-4668, whatisnu.com A neighbouring table of Japanese hipsters squeeze syringes of beer into their fried oysters. Nearby, a pair of stylish octogenarians inhale martinis and the sunset, while out on the deck two attractive young women feed each other profiteroles. We’re seated in barrel chairs in a space that suggests a roller rink on The Love Boat. Cantilevered over False Creek’s yachts and tall riggings, Nu’s vast patio and wraparound windows make the most of the delectable view. Design elements range from elegant to quirky: limestone, brass-plated steel, multicoloured marble and an innovative spinning wine rack. Beneath the dark brass ceiling glow graceful Italian chandeliers; a green neon version suggests something a little more wanton. Nu, after all, means “naked” in French, and some dishes – chilled Dungeness crab, cold poached spot prawns – are stripped down to diaphanous olive oil and lemon.
Executive Chef Robert Clark’s menu is a puzzle that fits no matter how you put it together. It has stylistic whimsy (sections “to amuse,” “to begin” and “for the hand”) and nods to culinary trendiness (the stuck oysters reference molecular gastronomy; roasted bone marrow with parsley salad is a page from the nose-to-tail eating book). Yet it still accomplishes interpretations of French classics (chicken ballotine, duck confit, orange chiboust) and traditional desserts (crisp lemon tart, supple profiteroles and textbook crème brûlée). The kitchen, while ambitious, isn’t afraid of a bit of fun. Chicken wings (this year’s poutine) are elevated to the fine dining level, stuffed with goat cheese and dressed with an espelette chili gastrique. Pliable crackers are filled with liquid cheddar and flavoured with bacon. As the third upscale room in restaurateur Harry Kambolis’ portfolio, Nu combines the best facets of Raincity Grill and C with an eclectic, less-formal approach. Such naked ambition is a winning approach. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | CBNR Mission Statement & Index | Home |
