Raw Deal, Part II
We really love oysters. In Vancouver, Go Fish and Lift Bar Grill View have the advantage of being right on the water, but even landlocked restaurants like Big Fish (Calgary) and Métropolitain Brasserie (Ottawa) had impressive raw bars this year.

The Year of the Tajine
Served in its traditional namesake glazed earthenware dish at both The Willow on Wascana (Regina) and Chambar Belgian Restaurant (Vancouver), Moroccan-inspired tajine also appeared on the menu this year at Waterfront Wines Wine Bar & Bistro (Kelowna, B.C.).

See and Be Seen
The Coal Harbour vistas visible from Lift Bar Grill View (Vancouver), the mountain panoramas at Mukamuk (Banff, Alta.) and the tranquil rural setting of Gambrel (Val-des-Monts, Que.) are all just about good enough to eat.

Sommelier of the Year
Kim Cyr honed her wine skills at Vancouver’s C restaurant, but now manages the eclectic and exciting list at George (Toronto). She brings a warm and enthusiastic approach to her subject that makes everyone from novices to jaded oenophiles want to learn – and sip – a little more.

You’ll Eat What I Put in Front of You
There will be no careful matching of wine with various courses at Lee (Toronto), where dishes come out in seemingly random order. So braised beef with crispy shallots might be followed by roasted scallops with pea purée. Or not.

Best Wine Lists
Not only is the list at Panache (Quebec City) wide-ranging, with an emphasis on French producers and a good selection of half bottles, but they serve wines in the slender, beautiful and very pricey Riedel Sommelier series glasses. The list at George (Toronto) isn’t quite as lengthy, but it does include some very unusual choices and the knowledgeable staff will ably guide diners toward an unexpected choice. Both Fifty Two 80 Bistro & Bar (Whistler, B.C.) and Waterfront Wines Wine Bar & Bistro (Kelowna, B.C.) have excellent selections of boutique B.C. wines.

Hardest-Working Waiter
Not only did the very personable waiter Chad Gaskell eagerly answer all of our questions at The Rosemeade Dining Room (Victoria), but when we went for lunch the next day at Zambri’s, we discovered him working there too.

The Other Bubbly
La Pommeraie Bistro (Cobble Hill, B.C.) offers the option of pairing dishes with cider made on the property.

The Other White Wine
Kampai! to Japanese restaurants like Jun i (Montreal) and Shiru-Bay Chopstick Café (Vancouver), for offering intriguing selections of sake and for educating the staff on the merits of each variety.

The Other Red Meats
We expect to see more goat on menus soon – it’s already being curried at the Blue Chair Cafe (Edmonton). Beef continues to get a run for its money from bison, which is madras spiced at Fuze Finer Dining (Banff, Alta.) and charbroiled at The Willow on Wascana (Regina). We saw elk done two ways: the shank is braised at The Siding Café (Calgary) and the tenderloin is served up at Mukamuk (Banff, Alta.). The ultimate carnivores’ delight is the game-tasting menu at Pair Bistro (Vancouver), which includes juniper caribou, sour cherry venison and cedar elk escalope.