4 - Raza

The projected image of a Peruvian farmer illuminates one wall, presiding over the assembled diners like an icon. A sexy little corner for cocktails sits next to a minuscule kitchen – with an electric stove instead of gas! – that manages to create some very big flavours. From course to course, the elevated fare at this unassuming Nuevo Latino restaurant is a revelation.

Consider a crunchy foie gras empanada, slick on the inside with duck liver, pork and apple chutney: the foie gras adds richness and body, the chutney brings sweetness, while a purple corn reduction adds colour and acidity. On a segmented square white plate, quarters of prosciutto-wrapped quail, cradling tiny cubes of stuffing as soft and special as cake, are anointed with guava barbecue sauce. There may be only a few desserts on the menu but you’ll never want for more: chocolate ravioli with banana chutney or an intense, complex avocado ice cream with candied grapefruit.

This is the kind of food that makes diners drop their cutlery, stare at each other in disbelief and recite panegyrics. Exotic, compelling flavours, an artful presentation and an expert technique are the hallmarks of chef Mario Navarrete Jr.’s beatific cuisine.

114, av. Laurier O., Montréal, 514-227-8712

www.restaurantraza.com

5 - George

That the room is decorated like Willy Wonka’s boudoir, with its mauve chairs, filigreed wrought iron and dramatic lighting, is not all that surprising. The building was, after all, once a chocolate factory.

Chef Lorenzo Loseto honed his skills in some of Toronto’s finest kitch­ens: Rain, Zoom and Susur Lee’s legendary Lotus. His modern ap­proach is not easily defined; small plates are not quite appetizers and not quite en­trees. Instead, three small courses are recommended, followed by dessert. Knowledgeable staff who are happy to guide diners through the fantastic wine list ensure that no dish goes unpaired.

What does dining this way mean? It means ribbons of pink beef tenderloin served as a composed salad with caramelized salsify and truffled quinoa; smoked sable fish with basil tempura and saffron-pickled vege­tables; veal paired with a pecan potato pavé and chevre mushroom gratin; a chocolate frangiapane tart – exquisite on its own – enhanced by ginger ice cream. It’s the grown-up version of finding a golden ticket.

111C Queen St. E., Toronto, 416-863-6006

www.georgeonqueen.com