3 - Le Club Chasse et Pêche

Virtually invisible from the street, an unmarked door opens onto a room that is dim, almost sinister, and yet utterly seductive. This “hunting and fishing club” is in the former location of the famed Fadeau, but the concept is entirely newfangled. Beyond the inscrutable entrance vestibule, the bar is pure cinema, like a tavern in a David Lynch film. Opposite, the masculine dining room is reminiscent of a venerable lodge – with contemporary art instead of taxidermy decorating the walls.

Take note of the club crest (leaping fish between antlers) everywhere – on the discreet sign outside and the custom wallpaper on the ceiling, etched into the Riedels and stamped onto the leather menu and carpet-underlay dessert coasters. In a less-confident restaurant this might read as trying too hard; here it simply adds to the place’s considerable charm.

The wording of chef Claude Pelletier’s menu gives little away: “Duck foie gras two ways: seared and parfait” only hints at the dark succulence of the creamy seared liver and jammy rhubarb, and gives no indication whatsoever of the walnuts and whisper of truffle accompanying the parfait. The signature dish, Chasse et Pêche, described as “new school surf and turf,” pairs poached lobster and braised brisket with a creamy celery root puree that brings silken acidity. From these powerful flavours dinner shifts to the delicate desserts of pastry chef Masami Waki, including Paradiso, a square of puff pastry topped with a soft fudge caramel that’s anointed tableside with a shot of hot caramel.

The service is uncanny; dishes appear and disappear magically and recommendations are made with grace. Co-owners Pelletier and Hubert Marsolais, talented restaurateurs formerly affiliated with the sleek Cube, have combined their refined esthetic with a delightful injection of whimsy.

423, rue Saint-Claude, Montréal, 514-861-1112