1 - GarÇon!

Warning: this restaurant may not be suitable for all diners. It contains scenes of audacity, culinary extravagance and light bondage. Gastronomic discretion is strongly advised.

Go here if you are unfazed by the arrival of the hot-towel-bearing staff – stylish, intelligent young women and knowledgeable young men in expensive-looking suits – intending to gently massage your hands after the amuse-bouche. And if the sight of a beautiful blonde diner sporting a blindfold while her date feeds her sorbet doesn't rattle you, then Garçon! has much to offer.

The I-shaped dining room creates three separate spaces, with caramel leather on the chairs and thick linens on the tables. Jazz standards serenade diners at a volume just above subliminal.

The food is opulent and, like the chic dining room, slightly kinky. Chef Jérôme Lefils’ idiosyncratic menu is full of surprises. Lamb’s lettuce is paired with porcini and dressed with truffle vinaigrette, while beside it a Cro-Magnon beef bone leaks rich marrow. Mushrooms and chestnuts are sautéed in lard and served with luscious Quebec lamb loin. Root vegetables braised in a juniper infused sauce, bitter chocolate marquise joined by whisky ice cream – this is exciting, personal food.

On weekends, dapper sommelier Don-Jean Léandri suggests wines to pair with this intrepid menu. The wine list is so tightly edited and changes so frequently, it en­sures that you can almost never go wrong.

Proprietor Patricia Hovington, who previously owned the much-lauded Jongleux, Chorus and Allumette, has created an elegant and ambitious restaurant. You will be encouraged to indulge harmless fetishes in a way that is never precious or intimidating. For adventurous diners who are comfortable with a high level of pampering in a refined setting, Garçon! is a pure sensory delight.

1112, rue Sherbrooke O., Montréal, 514-843-4000

www.restaurantgarcon.com