Port of Recall

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Where to Stay
Certain features of the design may drive you “Starck” raving mad (dim lighting, slippery bathrooms), but the Faena Hotel + Universe is a must-stay. Suites have full kitchens, complete with Faena-monogrammed china. The green-glass spa has amazing massages and the city’s steamiest hammam.
Martha Salotti 445, 54-11-4010-9000, www.faenahotelanduniverse.com

When the Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt Buenos Aires opens in May, it will be the city’s most luxurious hotel. This modern tower grafted onto a historic Recoleta palace will have a cheese cave and wine bar serving Argentinian delicacies.
Avenida Alvear 1661, 54-11-5171-1234 (pre-opening: 54-11-4815-6354), www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com

Palermo Viejo has two new cheap, chic accommodations to choose from. The seven-room Bo Bo Hotel (think “bohemian bourgeois”) feels like a very stylish B&B. Home Hotel, opened by a British music producer, brings a London vibe to this laid-back South American quarter.
Bo Bo Hotel Guatemala 4882, 54-11-4774-0505, www.bobohotel.com
Home Hotel Honduras 5860, 54-11-4778-1008, www.homebuenosaires.com

Where to Eat
Meat eaters, rejoice. You’ll find a parilla (Argentinian steak house) on every block. Two of the best are in Puerto Madero: Cabaña Las Lilas, which raises its own herds of Angus and Hereford, and La Caballeriza, which has delicious chorizo and pork ribs.

La Caballeriza Alicia Moreau de Justo 580, 54-11-4514-4444, www.lacaballerizapuertomadero.com
(and two other locations)
Cabaña Las Lilas Restaurante Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, 54-11-4313-1336, www.laslilas.com.ar

The owners of Argentinian gastro-temple Sucre also run the reasonably priced Bar Uriarte in Palermo (perfect for pizza and light market-style cuisine) as well as Gran Bar Danzon downtown (sushi, wine bar and live jazz).
Bar Uriarte Uriarte 1572, 54-11-4834-6004, www.baruriarte.com.ar
Gran Bar Danzon Libertat 1161 (second floor), 54-11-4811-1108, www.granbardanzon.com.ar
Sucre Sucre 676, 54-11-4782-9082, www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar
Buenos Aires’ classic cafés look like they’re right out of the Old World. Here are three favourites.
Cafe Tortoni Avenida de Mayo 825, 54-11-4342-4328, www.cafetortoni.com.ar
Confitería y Restaurante Richmond Florida 468, 54-11-4322-1653, www.restaurant.com.ar/richmond
La Biela Avenida Quintana 600, 54-11-4804-0449, www.labiela.com

What to Do
Shopping in Palermo, a very walkable neighbourhood, turns up one-of-a-kind treasures at great prices. For leather goods, we loved the avant-garde styles at Humawaca. Felix has colourful, hip looks for men, while Mishka’s shoes will make any girl feel like Cinderella. Papelera Palermo is an old-school print shop with everything from grocery-list pads to cowhide photo albums.
Felix Gurruchaga 1670, 54-11-4832-2994, www.felixba.com.ar
Humawaca El Salvador 4692, 54-11-4832-2662, www.humawaca.com
Mishka El Salvador 4673, 54-11-4833-6566
Papelera Palermo Honduras 4945, 54-11-4833-3081, www.papelerapalermo.com.ar

For the best in cultural happenings and milongas (tango gatherings), visit www.letstango.com.ar, an insider’s look at the arts. Most of the site is bilingual (Spanish-English).

A must-try Argentinian ritual is sipping yerba mate, a traditional tea-like beverage with purported wellness properties and a great anti-jet lag zap. It can be found at cafés like La Peña Grande.
La Peña Grande del Colorado Entre Ríos 1444, 54-11-4304-3884

Getting There
Air Canada offers direct service to Buenos Aires from Toronto, with convenient connections from other major Canadian centres.

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