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Where to Stay The aptly named Wald-und Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe is surrounded by forest and housed in a former palace. Try the dining room’s superb Fürst zu Hohenlohe-Oehringen wines. A walk through the halls at the Hotel Eisenhut (iron helmet) is a historical adventure, and the panoramic vineyard view from the dining room is even better. The cozy Schafhof Amorbach is on a 14th-century Benedictine sheep farm in the Odenwald Forest. Taste at least a few of the 13 varieties of schnapps at the original distillery. Where to Eat Lunch at Burghotel Götzenburg is excellent, as is the castle’s museum. Look for Götz von Berlichingen’s famous iron hand. The sun-dappled Landgasthof Heidersbacher Mühle is justly known for its smoked trout and wild boar, served on a trencher with mushrooms and apple-nut salad. Weingut Glocke, run by the family that owns the Glocke hotel, serves delicious Schwäbisch Hall pork and cheese spaetzle. It also offers three wine-tasting cards. We preferred the whites. When you “sample” beer at the 350-year-old Brauhaus Faust zu Miltenberg (Faust Brewery), they give you the whole bottle. The Kräusen reportedly improves virility, and the malt is strong and flavourful. What to Do Our six-day bespoke trip through the famous Romantic Road area, with Canadian boutique travel group Butterfield & Robinson, started with a warm-up ride from Heidelberg and ended in Rothenburg. B&R creates exhaustively researched tours with in-the-know guides. If you need a ride in the backup van, we won’t tell. The privately owned Schloss Neuenstein offers guided tours of the original moat, 15th-century kitchen and
armoury museum. The Red Tower in Bad Wimpfen is siege-proof and draughty, but its roof affords a magnificent view of the winding Jagst River. Take a sunset tour of the Rothenburg town wall with the Night Watchman, who’ll fill you in on local history (ask about the “manhole” in the town gate) and drop you off at the lively wine bar Zur Höll. Travel Planner What to Pack in June Sunglasses and Epsom salts (for an après-bike soak). Good to Know Chatting on cellphones while cycling is illegal. Time Difference (From EST) +6 The Experts Butterfield & Robinson, 866-551-9090, butterfield.com Getting There Air Canada offers convenient daily service to Frankfurt from Vancouver† , Calgary, Toronto and Montreal. († With Star Alliance™ member Lufthansa.) |
