Rocky Mountain High
By Craille Maguire Gillies
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A long-time playground for Calgarians, Canmore is now a pocket of urbanity tucked in the wild Bow Valley. One resident puts it this way: “There are mountains in all directions, the river in front of you and sometimes an elk.”
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The Rockies view is clichéd for a reason, which becomes apparent while gawking at Mount Rundle on a drive down the bumpy Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail. For a smooth all-season journey, it hooks up to the paved Kananaskis Trail. Just watch out for bighorn sheep.
Artists are in residence on weekends at the Corridor Collective, where painter Chrissy Nickerson self-consciously turned down the heavy metal music when we arrived. Nearby, the Avens Gallery’s selection of local art includes sleek gold and pearl jewellery and strikingly imperfect hand-blown glasses.
The only bears we saw were the stuffed ones rappelling from the ceiling at the Grizzly Paw Brewing Company. Also hanging were beer mugs for regulars (with outstanding tabs tucked inside). There are drinks for the entire Grizzly crowd – from homemade sodas for kids to house-brewed beer (Rutting Elk Red has the most bite) for everyone else.
Snack
Crazyweed Kitchen grew from a deli counter to its new spot with a sod roof. Flatbread pizzas are named after the owners’ favourite celebrities (the Milton Berle is topped with dill pesto-coated salmon), and pie-sized sandwiches include the Crazy Lambwich.
At Quarry Bistro & Winebar, the Wyse siblings (David cooks, Naomi serves the wine) think local. The cheesy part of their mac and cheese – served piping hot in a cast-iron pan – is from near Red Deer. The bison for their tender steak is raised in Northern Alberta. And, like the food, most of the crowd is local.
Relax
The smell of sawdust wafts along the Bow Valley Trail. At the new Fire Mountain Lodge, each bedroom has mountain views. Nearby, luxury developments like Solara Canmore (opening this summer, complete with cooking school) join Three Sisters Mountain Village, which has 1,200 homes (a five-star hotel is in the works), two wildlife corridors and a celebrated semi-private golf course.
Write to us: letters@enroutemag.net
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