Black Diamonds Are Forever

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After sensibly sticking to the marked runs, we decide it’s time to scratch the surface of Courchevel’s off-piste. While approaching a spot we had scoped out on the climb up the Col de la Loze, I see an enormous sign warning of avalanches. With my ski tips extending into the void, I crane forward to watch the fearless who’ve gone before. Sliding over deep snow, we burn down Dou des Lanches, carving wide turns until we reach the Praz Juget lift.

At night, La Croisette is packed with ski junkies, and everyone’s attention is captured by one man: Manu Gaidet, a superstar triple world freeskiing champion who’s sponsored by the resort. Tall, lean and perfectly chic in his designer leather vest, he doesn’t look anything like a delinquent freerider. But his good looks are misleading; Gaidet is an incredible extreme skier. No wonder he’s continuously swarmed by a flock of Chanel- and Dior-clad young women. Flustered myself, I manage to get a quiet hello and a hand on my shoulder from Gaidet as I attempt to speak – in perfectly awful Japanese – with the winners of the best film.

From watching the prowess of the freeriders in the films, I realize that I’ve hardly conquered Courchevel’s snowy terrain. On our last day, we head to the Roc Mugnier runs, located right below the enigmatic Aiguille du Fruit, the highest summit of the resort. Far ahead, I see virgin snowfields dotted with fir trees just waiting for us. Skis on our shoulders, we make our way to a steep wooded slope that requires a bit of scaling. When my friend takes a turn and sinks into snow right up to her neck, I almost reconsider my appraisal of the snow cover. Instead, I take out my Kodak, worried that no one back in Canada will believe me.

By day’s end, my cheeks rosy from a final run from the Saulire summit, I can’t wait to devour the decadently creamy fondue savoyarde. I’ll have to refuse the traditional génépi digestif, however. The Mercedes, complete with chains this time, awaits our return.

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