Charlevoix, QuébeC

There I am, pregnant to the hilt in a tiny car that is tentatively moving along the twists and turns of Route 138 in the snowy region of Charlevoix. I console myself with the thought that challenging experiences are the most memorable. The soon-to-be dad of my inside passenger offers to drive, so I gaze admiringly at the rural landscape. As we travel from village to village, we begin to understand the locals’ abiding love of winter. Deserted by visitors after the first heavy snowfall, the Charlevoix region is astonishingly beautiful. Its icy panoramas and slow-moving river inspire tranquility – and the urge for a little pampering. After a few days, I am ready to adopt another rhythm. One that belongs to lingering dinners and chess games that last forever.

– Julie Roy

Hotels

La Pinsonnière

Covered in a thick blanket of snow, La Pinsonnière is so well camouflaged, we almost drive right past it. The most elegant place in Cap-à-l’Aigle, this Relais & Châteaux property is ultraposh but makes you feel right at home. Unable to indulge in the offerings of one of the best wine cellars in the area, I focus instead on the food. The spectacular breakfast spreads are the perfect fuel for a day on the slopes – or for simply lounging around. I opt for the latter and place myself in the capable hands of Lisette, the massage therapist who lavishes me with firm but gentle attention.

Auberge La Muse

La Muse is a little bit of sunshine in the heart of Baie-Saint-Paul. Sated with our recent diet of rich local ingredients, we opt for a light snack of almond butter, miso and bean sprouts and book into 12E, the “re-energizing” room. Apparently, its mattress, bedspread and pillows are guaranteed to restore our energy reserves overnight. Despite our scepticism, we get a full 10 hours of incredibly restful sleep. Now was it the room or the country air that gave us that glow the next morning?

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

There is a timeless quality to the grandiose surroundings and hushed silence of this deluxe establishment. Famished after the drive to get here, I am more than ready to sample the award-winning cuisine in the Manoir’s Le Charlevoix restaurant. Whether it’s true hunger or my unborn child eager for his first taste of foie gras, I feel my stomach quiver in anticipation. After a gratifying meal and a digestive walk around the grounds, my hubby suggests a dip in the heated outdoor pool. But the antique suitcases we borrowed from my mother are enormous, so he takes forever to find our swimsuits. By the time he returns, I’m already sleeping like a baby.