Naoshima, JAPAN
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Where to Stay
First museum restaurants, now museum hotels: Benesse House has cornered the market with four upscale digs simply called Museum, Oval, Park and Beach. A concierge service introduced in May ups the comfort factor. Naturally, artwork decorates most of the spaces. Hotel and restaurant reservations are through Benesse House. Here are a few of our favourite features.
Local planners would not allow a pure museum, so the first art hub was built with eight top-floor rooms in the concrete-clad Museum.
For one of the most sublime hotel architecture experiences, take a private funicular monorail to the six-room Oval. Introverts will like the wind-rippled, Zen-like central fountain. Extroverts will like the 360-degree view of the Inland Sea from the private deck. Everyone will love the personal on-call barman next door.
The two-storey Park might resemble a high-end motel, but Japanese architect Tadao Ando is anything but modest; it’s all modulating light and custom millwork. The 41-room ryokan is also home to a spa and shops.
A more intimate experience is found in the expansive surfside suites at Beach, with their salt-splashed cast concrete. The most primal beachside experience is
Benesse’s on-site oceanfront Mongolian-style tents – a bargain at $36 a night.
Benesse House Gotanji, Naoshima-cho, 81-87-892-2030, naoshima-is.co.jp
Where to Eat
Museum Restaurant serves ample Japanese breakfasts and even more elaborate evening kaiseki ryori (tasting menu) panoramas of culinary art. The art on the walls, including works by Jean-Michel Basquiat, has no doubt inspired the saturated colours and umami factor of its
Naoshimakaiseki Sakura menu. (Even locals whip out cameras for shots of these artful platters.) Reservations are a must.
The seaside Terrace Restaurant dishes out a hearty breakfast buffet. Dinner is an Italian affair, though some dishes are admittedly lost in translation.
What to Do
The hotel can arrange ferries and taxis for a half-day visit to the studio of late iconic Japanese-American
designer and sculptor Isamu Noguchi on the island
of Shikoku, where he returned in the 1960s. Nearby, in the bustling town of Takamatsu, you’ll find ancient houses and a sake factory at Shikoku-mura heritage park. Swing by Waraya restaurant, in a 17th-century building at the entrance, for the best-ever tempura and cold handmade Sanuki udon noodles.
Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum Japan 3519 Mure, Mure-cho, Takamatsu-shi, 81-87-870-1500, isamunoguchi.or.jp
Shikoku Mura (Japanese only shikokumura.or.jp
Explore the Art House Project by bicycle, available for a song from the hotel. Then make the slow trip up to (and fast trip down from) the Chichu Art Musem,
Ando’s crowning masterpiece and home to three ultradiverse artworks by Claude Monet, Walter De Maria and James Turrell.
Chichu Art Museum 3449-1 Naoshima, Kagawa,
81-87-892-3755, www.chichu.jp
Resources
Philip Jodidio’s sleek coffee table book Tadao Ando at Naoshima: Art, Architecture, Nature offers up an armchair trip to Naoshima through sketches, interviews and beautifully rendered photos.
rizzoli.com
Travel Planner
What to Pack in August Walking shoes, sunglasses, shorts.
Good to Know English and French are not widely spoken, so be sure to make advance travel arrangements through Benesse House.
Time Difference*
+13
The Experts
Naoshima Tourist Association
(Japanese only)
naoshima.net
Japan National Tourist Organization
jnto.go.jp
Getting There
Air Canada offers non-stop service to Tokyo from Vancouver and Toronto. For service to Takamatsu, connect with Star Alliance™ member ANA. A one-hour ferry ride to Naoshima leaves from Takamatsu Port.
*From EST
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