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CANADA'S BEST NEW RESTAURANTS 2003
3_ LES CHÈVRES
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Co-owner Claude Beausoleil travelled the world for the past two years and returned to Montreal with some big ideas. He teamed up with Stéphane Therrien, and got chef Stelio Perombelon and pastry chef Patrice Demers to put his seasonally driven, mostly (but not exclusively) haute vegetarian concept into action in a colourful, playful room.
Herbivores, rejoice! No granola crunch here. The evening starts with a cocktail "experience": white Porto and fresh-squeezed yellow tomato juice. (It works.) Cleansing cucumber sips ready the palate for a starter of fresh multiple flavours via a brunoise of grapefruit, grapefruit paste and radish in tarragon oil. Decadent cream of white asparagus soup with shaved truffles and mustard seed is spring in a bowl. Mushroom and asparagus crepes filled with sautéed morels, salsify and white and green tips is also a killer combo.
On it goes, into the night, as sommelier-approved wine is poured and intriguing desserts materialize: ethereal goats milk tapioca with a quenelle of pineapple sorbet, strawberries and fresh oregano leaves. Runny brie at its peak, bleeding cheesy goodness. A raucous eight-course vegetarian tasting menu that includes three desserts and a tray of sweets? Now this is how to live.
1201, avenue Van Horne, Montréal, 514-270-1119
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