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CANADA'S BEST NEW RESTAURANTS 2003
2_ BIS MORENO
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Step into the stunning minimalist navy and brown room, and be transported from downtown Vancouver to 21st-century Milano. Take in the intricate ballet of mâitre d, bread and water boys, waiter and sommelier a veritable SWAT team of Italian-suited servers amassed by owners Moreno (who is also the chef) and Cinzia Miotto to give you a swish night out with mamma mia goodness.
Settle in over greeting sips of sweet red Italian soda with bitters on ice. Now decisions must be made, but not many. Choose from a five- or eight-course chefs menu or a seven-course pasta menu, all available with matching wine flights. (Extraordinary flexibility in the kitchen also allows for personalized menus.). I like their moxie; lets go with the chefs tasting. First, a trio of pouchy handmade raviolis: lobster with fresh tomato sauce; porcini in sage butter; cauliflower in white truffle oil. Next up: Copper River salmon with crispy skin like crackling; a virtuoso dish of pappardelle tossed with braised rabbit sauce; then butterflied quail with Parmesan risotto and cipollini onions, laced with foie gras and goose fat. (Is it getting hot in here?)
Dessert is no afterthought either orange flower torte with pine nuts, apricot cardamom sauce and honey semifreddo. Bis Moreno is a modern Italian masterpiece.
1355 Hornby St., Vancouver, 604-669-2812
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