ENROUTE TV   ENROUTE FM   MEDIA KIT   AIR CANADA   LINKS   WRITERS'   GUIDELINES	CANADA'S BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2003 1_ BYMARK Intro   |   1   |   2   |   3   |   4   |   5   |   6   |   7   |   8   |   9   |   10 Moving a blockwide food court in the Mies van der Rohe-designed Toronto-Dominion Centre comes with some great expectations. The stakes are high, people are watching and a jealous few secretly hope this time Golden Boy fails. But within a week of opening, you could not get a reservation at Bymark – it was already pre-booked by Bay Street suits. The place is a triumph, and here’s why: Mark McEwan. The chef and restaurateur first earned his celebrated rep at North 44 and Terra. And if moving a food court didn’t do it, perhaps the self-referential name will clue you in to the fact that McEwan means business. His attention to detail – from gathering the finest ingredients to the passionate wine list and extremely chic cocktails – is exquisite. Then there’s the decor. The Yabu Pushelberg firm has turned a gloomy subterranean space into a de facto urban Canadian Shield by using raw materials – wood, concrete, slate, cork – and luxing them up to a high gloss. McEwan must also be commended for understanding his clientele: Some may want to try his smoky-sweet grilled octopus salad (created by McEwan but cooked up by chef Brooke McDougall), but others will want a perfectly aged steak, with fries in a paper cone. A dish like pan-seared foie gras with tempura onions, roasted apples, fried sage and a maple-balsamic glaze incorporates every taste and texture known to man without being overwhelmed by its own whimsy. The high prices are justified, and you’ve got to love the unabashed cheek of a headline-stealing $33.95 hamburger: eight ounces of grilled U.S. prime, topped with melted brie de Meaux and grilled porcinis, served with a stack of rosemary onion rings and truffle aïoli. Worth every damn cent. Do not forgo dessert, be it crispy pear fritters or airy meringue overflowing with cream and tropical fruit. Just coming up to its first birthday, Bymark is already venerable. It’s a significant addition to the country’s food scene. 66 Wellington St. W., Toronto, 416-777-1144  |   www.bymark.com ADD YOUR COMMENTS > letters@enroutemag.net Intro   |   1   |   2   |   3   |   4   |   5   |   6   |   7   |   8   |   9   |   10
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