The Mild West

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The café Oso Negro (Spanish for black bear) is a slice of the East Village in Nelson, with great sandwiches and a rotating selection of 20-plus brews, including caffeine companions the Prince and Princess of Darkness. Later on, stop by All Seasons Café (above) for the best patio in the West. Even when the mercury plunges in an April cold snap, it’s no problem – there are warm blankets for everyone. 

Definitely bring the sticks. Over in the East Kootenays, there’s an embarrassment of excellent resort golf courses, like Trickle Creek and St. Eugene, with more on the way. (The Gary Player-designed Wildstone and Fred Couples’ Whiskey Jack open this year.) West of Nelson, look for bargain courses like Castlegar and the newly extended Redstone. Or split the difference with the secluded old-school charmer Kokanee Springs Resort (left). 

Blaylock’s Mansion, a 20th-century lakeside retreat for the party-hearty manager of the Trail smelter, now operates as a lodge and spa. For woodsy surroundings, Bull River Guest Ranch has fishing, horseback riding and helicopter sightseeing at the doorsteps of its seven log cabins and lodge. Another take on backcountry luxe is celebrity magnet Island Lake Lodge (left).

Kimberley’s Old Bauernhaus restaurant is housed in an ancient cider barn and log home. The buildings, more than 350 years old, were disassembled and freighted over from Germany. (Even the clientele was authentic: The place was filled with Germans.) What won us over, though, were the charm, service and cooking. Schnitzel accompanied by spaetzle further proves that the egg-noodle dish is the next great starch. 

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