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Canada’s Next Great Neighbourhoods1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | Itinerary | Home 
Agricola Street, Halifax With yupsters restoring the area’s Victorian homes, contemporary galleries, design stores and cafés are colonizing Agricola’s once-empty spaces. By Sean Flinn 9:00 Early risers flow in and out of Fred, a postmodern conjunction of hair salon, café and art gallery that’s taken over the premises of a former bank building. Homemade granola, breakfast paninis and fair-trade coffee draw university students, artists and young families by day; at night, fundraisers and wedding receptions take over. 10:00 Agricola has emerged as Halifax’s interior design row now that the area’s vibrantly painted homes are being bought up and renovated. But the modern-minded from all over the city converge at Statement Fine Home Furnishings for contemporary finds with a Canadian pedigree and neighbouring lighting mecca Norman Flynn. 13:00 The Samosa Hut Grocery & Restaurant and Mid East Food Center provide the takeout, while Smith’s Bakery & Café, operating since 1932, provides the sit-down lunch. 15:00 Another historic bakery – circa 1832 – has been transformed into Creative Crossing, a space now housing artists ranging from a painter (Ivan Murphy) to a silkscreen printer (28 Toes Pet Portraits) and potter (Allison Moz). 17:00 NSCAD University art students and nostalgia-chasing boomers descend on the ever-eclectic Lost & Found, which celebrates Halifax’s take on art, fashion and kitsch. 20:30 The training ground for new Halifax musicians has shifted from downtown to Agricola, where Gus’ Pub & Grill and One World Café play host to the latest indie innovators: The Just Barelys, Amelia Curran and Dog Day. Independent theatre raises the curtain at the Space. “I realized there was an opportunity for me to be part of a really eclectic community and to create this very contemporary, vital community centre for the neighbourhood.” – Fred Connors, owner of Fred
The Old East End, St. John's With its distinctive mansard roofs and dormer windows, the Old East End has endured fire and economic downturn to become the new face of young St. John’s. Avec ses demeures à toits mansardés et à lucarnes, le vieil East End a surmonté un incendie et une récession économique pour incarner le renouveau de St. John’s. By Karl Wells 9:00 Steam rises from the non-stop espresso machine at Chatters Cafe; double espressos are popular with last night’s George Street revellers. Bagel Cafe fans chow down on the workingman’s bacon, eggs, toast and hash browns. 11:00 At landmark emporium Living Planet T-Shirts, all the designs are by Newfoundland artists. A Soviet-inspired “Accordion Revolution” shirt or a “Free Nfld.” design goes for $25. 12:30 The cheekily named Get Stuffed restaurant is hopping as lunchtime patrons munch on meatloaf club and pulled pork sandwiches. Most will be back later for dinnertime fare like duck pot pie. 15:00 Afternoon audiophiles search the trove of local music at Fred’s Records for bargains. You might catch indie musicians, like Adam Hogan of Hey Rosetta!, delivering copies of the band’s latest. 16:00 Red Ochre Gallery owner Brenda McClellan is likely busy hanging new works by abstract painters such as Elena Popova at her gallery, which exclusively shows Newfoundland fine art. Down the street, Posie Row stocks funky wool headgear alongside shimmering glass bracelets. 19:00 It’s sushi pizzas for all as RCA theatregoers enjoy a pre-show bite at Sun Sushi. Across the street, Devito’s serves up Portuguese bacalhau, popular among St. John’s natives, who seem genetically predisposed to crave excellent salted cod. “This old neighbourhood is waking up from a long sleep. Thoughtful restoration and small business have done the trick. New arrivals with fresh eyes are giving it a second chance.” – Gary Holden, Rendell Shea Manor Write to us: letters@enroutemag.net |
